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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.